Contrary to the name of the route. This route was totally for us. I’ve climbed it a few times but the great thing that I like about this route is that I almost always forget the ideal path and have to figure out the middle fresh. Read more
Bouldering is a style of rock climbing characterized by shorter climbs where no rope is used. Climbers are six or more feet of the ground and when finished with a route (known as a problem) they either climb back down or if the problem permits, they jump off the rock face to the ground. Usually there is a thick foam pad on the ground called a crash pad.
Got a hot tip on a new outdoor place from a friend so we decided to check it out today. This place had no name, a single bolted route rated a 5.9+ and a whole bunch of top rope-able stuff.
The only downside is that neither of us can climb beyond the first bolt on an outside 5.9 and we arrived too late to set up anchors. We ended up messing around a bit before giving up for another day.
Its twenty minutes north of Portland and a 15 minute flat walk approach. Great to know this ledge is nearby.
Maine Rock Gym
On January 4, 2015 the Maine Rock Gym closed its doors for the last time. The gym has been open for twenty years and has grown to mean a lot of things to a lot of people. Read more
V0 | The Pier Lapse
Here is a new take on a previously climbed favorite, same route, now we’re against the clock. Light fades on this playground of chunky granite jugs. Though not very technical, I’ve found it to be a good training tool and since there is never anyone there you don’t have to get off.
Podcast: Download (Duration: 2:00 — 22.2MB)
V3 | Orange (MRG)
I was working on this problem at the same time as two other people but didn’t top out first. The problem is pretty straight forward up to the last two moves. Read more
evo ROCK + FITNESS
There is a new rock gym opening soon in Portland in Partnership with the Maine Rock Gym in Portland and evo ROCK + FITNESS of New Hampshire. Read more
V0 | The Pier
I met this pier for the first time about three weeks ago and instantly knew that I had to traverse it. All the holds are really chunky and there is plenty of room for foot work so you’ll have plenty of time to check out the view. Read more
V3 | Red (MRG)
This route took a few shots to get it right. The hardest part is balancing your weight over in the corner while you finish crossing left hand over your right. Read more
V4 | Purple (MRG)
Not sure what is up with all the purple routes lately but they’ve brought me some luck. Tonight I climbed my first ever V4. Since it is my first, I’m not sure how accurately it is rated. Read more
V1 | Purple (MRG)
After nearly two weeks off climbing, it was time to get back on the wall. This is a new route on the bouldering pillar. Read more
V2 | Black (MRG)
Nailed this one first try out of the gate after a boulder reset. The black routes in this corner are always tricky balance problems. This one starts with a hard left lean but once you get your center of gravity up and over the center, it is pretty straight forward.
Podcast: Download (137.7MB)
V3 | Green (MRG)
I just had a really great night at the gym. If you’ve seen some of the earlier posts, you know that I’ve struggled with the current MRG bouldering set. Read more
V3 | Teal (MRG)
This route was taunting me. There were two dudes watching me try this and watching me fail this route. I caught two fails on camera and about six off camera. Read more
V2 | Black (MRG)
I finally landed this beast! It is only five holds to the top but the third one is a tiny red jerk. I could make it to that hold every time that I tried this route but each time I just slid right off it. Read more
V3 | Crossover (MRG)
I tried several times to get this one but kept falling off. The hand holds are very directional but in the wrong direction to where you need them to be. That is why this is a V3 I guess. Read more