Every year the BANFF Mountain Film Festival (@BanffMtnFest) selects a set of great films for a world wide tour. One of the stars of the 2014 tour was this winning documentary on the beginning of counter culture climbing in the Yosemite Valley.
Tag: rock climbing
Auto Belay On
Recently the new Salt Pump gym opened nearby and they have auto belays. I was initially excited because lately at my regular gym picking up loose change (my code for extra climbing partners) has been hard. Read more
5.6 | Scott vs. Arthur on Mirror Mirror (MRG)
This is kind of a cool part of MRG. There are two routes side by side that are just about mirror images of one another.
5.9 | Purple (MRG)
This is the first attempt on a new route and what a fun one it was. It started out with a left lean on one of my least favorite holds. Its three small holds to the first solid jug. Read more
5.8 | Routeless (MRG)
This unmarked route starts a bit tricky but it is smooth sailing all the way to the top after the first two holds. This was as much fun the first time around as it was the second. A great warm up if ever there was one.
Podcast: Download (Duration: 1:27 — 197.6MB)
V0 | The Pier Lapse
Here is a new take on a previously climbed favorite, same route, now we’re against the clock. Light fades on this playground of chunky granite jugs. Though not very technical, I’ve found it to be a good training tool and since there is never anyone there you don’t have to get off.
Podcast: Download (Duration: 2:00 — 22.2MB)
V3 | Orange (MRG)
I was working on this problem at the same time as two other people but didn’t top out first. The problem is pretty straight forward up to the last two moves. Read more
evo ROCK + FITNESS
There is a new rock gym opening soon in Portland in Partnership with the Maine Rock Gym in Portland and evo ROCK + FITNESS of New Hampshire. Read more
V0 | The Pier
I met this pier for the first time about three weeks ago and instantly knew that I had to traverse it. All the holds are really chunky and there is plenty of room for foot work so you’ll have plenty of time to check out the view. Read more
V3 | Red (MRG)
This route took a few shots to get it right. The hardest part is balancing your weight over in the corner while you finish crossing left hand over your right. Read more
5.9b | Purple (MRG)
This route quickly became known as the jerk route. The name fits because it is right next to the white witch route with similar attributes and frustration. It probably took 20 attempts before I “nailed” this one down. Read more
V4 | Purple (MRG)
Not sure what is up with all the purple routes lately but they’ve brought me some luck. Tonight I climbed my first ever V4. Since it is my first, I’m not sure how accurately it is rated. Read more
V1 | Purple (MRG)
After nearly two weeks off climbing, it was time to get back on the wall. This is a new route on the bouldering pillar. Read more
5.7 | Cafe Au Lait (Rumney)
The more I climb outside the more respect I have for outside climbers. It is way harder than it looks and it is a lot harder than climbing in a gym where you can easily spot all your placements. Read more
5.11b | Black (MGR)
Even though this route is likely over rated, I’m still calling it my best ever for the time being. Read more