I have been climbing on the guest pass of a friend at Salt Pump for a while. We have a routine, we climb a few top rope routes, get pumped out and call it a day. I’m lead certified at evo Rock + Fitness but had never bothered to get lead certified elsewhere. Until today, when we decided it was time to take my lead test.
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You may not have noticed but I haven’t been on a lead route in more than a year. I’ve also never captured a clean climb on a lead route, ever! The sadness ends today with this 5.8 route at evo Rock + Fitness in Portland, aptly named ‘Rub the Belly.’
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This green route faces the benches on the center pillar and was a fun one with some nice features.
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If you scroll down a few you’ll see that this route below but the previous climb was done on top rope. This time around I sent it on mock lead.
The last time I climbed this route, I was winding down and wasn’t able to climb it clean. This time around, I made it clean, but also realized again at top out that I was not only on the wrong rope, but the rope was also twisted.
This is the same route from below climbed a while ago but this time around I’m climbing for a lead test.
Even though this route is rated a 5.9, it climbs more like a 5.8 so it’s what I call an ego climb. Read more
Here is another fun warm up because it seems like lately, warm ups are the only climbs I can finish. This is a straight route with one small catch. Read more
Okay, so I have to be honest, I may have cheated a bit here. You might not see it but let me explain.
This route is yellow but it was proving to be a white whale. I had tried and failed but this time was different.
Lately I’ve been pulling out footage from the vault of unedited clips. Well here is one from the present. Read more
I just started climbing with a new friend that is a few inches shorter than me.
Contrary to the name of the route. This route was totally for us. I’ve climbed it a few times but the great thing that I like about this route is that I almost always forget the ideal path and have to figure out the middle fresh. Read more
You may remember two videos made some time ago on the pier at Mackworth Island. Well I decided since I missed going last summer that I would get out this year. My excitement was hit head on with disappointment. Let me tell you why.
This is normally an easy warm-up route but it is a bit more work in the dark finding your feet. It was the first time I’ve been able to climb a wall in the dark. I was at Maine Rock Gym for one but was only bouldering back then. Then I was at EVO Concord for one but was working on a time-lapse for a promo video. So, this is the first real climbing in the dark. I have the auto belay to thank since my partner couldn’t make it.
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