On January 4, 2015 the Maine Rock Gym closed its doors for the last time. The gym has been open for twenty years and has grown to mean a lot of things to a lot of people. Read more
Tag: Maine Rock Gym
5.6 | Scott vs. Arthur on Mirror Mirror (MRG)
This is kind of a cool part of MRG. There are two routes side by side that are just about mirror images of one another.
5.8 | Routeless (MRG)
This unmarked route starts a bit tricky but it is smooth sailing all the way to the top after the first two holds. This was as much fun the first time around as it was the second. A great warm up if ever there was one.
Podcast: Download (Duration: 1:27 — 197.6MB)
ReelRock Tour: Valley Uprising
My wife and I just returned home after watching ReelRock 9: Valley Uprising at the Portland Stage company. Not only did we see a wonderfully made feature-length documentary about the rise of rock climbing counter filter in Yosemite during the 1950’s to present, but we also won some cliff bars at the raffle that followed the screening! This film was (for a rookie climber) a crash course in the last 60 years of climbing culture. It is a definite must watch for everyone to see the progression of the sport and to be inspired by the human condition.
V3 | Red (MRG)
This route took a few shots to get it right. The hardest part is balancing your weight over in the corner while you finish crossing left hand over your right. Read more
5.9b | Purple (MRG)
This route quickly became known as the jerk route. The name fits because it is right next to the white witch route with similar attributes and frustration. It probably took 20 attempts before I “nailed” this one down. Read more
V4 | Purple (MRG)
Not sure what is up with all the purple routes lately but they’ve brought me some luck. Tonight I climbed my first ever V4. Since it is my first, I’m not sure how accurately it is rated. Read more
V1 | Purple (MRG)
After nearly two weeks off climbing, it was time to get back on the wall. This is a new route on the bouldering pillar. Read more
5.11b | Black (MGR)
Even though this route is likely over rated, I’m still calling it my best ever for the time being. Read more
V2 | Black (MRG)
Nailed this one first try out of the gate after a boulder reset. The black routes in this corner are always tricky balance problems. This one starts with a hard left lean but once you get your center of gravity up and over the center, it is pretty straight forward.
Podcast: Download (137.7MB)
5.10c | Green (MRG)
This 5.10 is my most difficult climb to date. I practiced the beginning a few times but was never able to get my right hand on the small yellow to time out the rest correctly. The result is a wacky hang change above the transition. I was surprised I made that honestly.
Podcast: Download (287.0MB)
V3 | Green (MRG)
I just had a really great night at the gym. If you’ve seen some of the earlier posts, you know that I’ve struggled with the current MRG bouldering set. Read more
5.9d | White (MRG)
You may have noticed a few videos starring Brandon. Well for weeks now, we’ve had a nickname for this white route. This is a clean show, but lets just say it is five letters and rhymes with ‘the twitch’. Time after time we both tried it and both failed. Usually in the same spot. Last week, this route broke Brandon’s new beaner. Well he has since defeated it, but until today, I hadn’t had a chance to send this mean old bitty.
Podcast: Download (264.0MB)
V3 | Teal (MRG)
This route was taunting me. There were two dudes watching me try this and watching me fail this route. I caught two fails on camera and about six off camera. Read more
5.9c | Arthur Page (MRG)
This route is a tough one in the back corner that requires a lot of wall play and lateral movement at the bottom. Once you get up to the transition, it’s a quick grab of a few small chips and then you’re at a solid top hold. For about a week, Read more