You’ll find this route on the center column facing the lead wall and if you like surprise endings, you’ll dig this route. It has some real fun moves and some fun features. You’ll find a nice mix of pinches and buckets with just enough grit to make a nine.
This route is in the back corner next to the auto-belay and it is a douse. It’s a blue route with some nice corner work in the middle but the top is all tiny holds. This route isn’t rated yet but we have a spoiler for you.
It has been too long. The last figure8 Podcast episode was published back in January 2017 so I thought a nice easy 5.7 route would be a good warm up for my day and for the Podcast.
You may not have noticed but I haven’t been on a lead route in more than a year. I’ve also never captured a clean climb on a lead route, ever! The sadness ends today with this 5.8 route at evo Rock + Fitness in Portland, aptly named ‘Rub the Belly.’
This green route faces the benches on the center pillar and was a fun one with some nice features.
If you scroll down a few you’ll see that this route below but the previous climb was done on top rope. This time around I sent it on mock lead.
The last time I climbed this route, I was winding down and wasn’t able to climb it clean. This time around, I made it clean, but also realized again at top out that I was not only on the wrong rope, but the rope was also twisted.
This is the same route from below climbed a while ago but this time around I’m climbing for a lead test.
Even though this route is rated a 5.9, it climbs more like a 5.8 so it’s what I call an ego climb. Read more
Here is another fun warm up because it seems like lately, warm ups are the only climbs I can finish. This is a straight route with one small catch. Read more
Okay, so I have to be honest, I may have cheated a bit here. You might not see it but let me explain.
Lately I’ve been pulling out footage from the vault of unedited clips. Well here is one from the present. Read more
The first time I got on this route, I nailed it. Fast forward a few days and you would think with some rest and a GoPro I would be aces. Not so fast Arthur.
Still working through the backlog of unedited clips and I found this route.
Dug up another gem from the archive. This one is a 5.10 from March of 2015 at the newly minted evo ROCK + FITNESS in Portland, Maine.