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5.9 | Get Your Wallet (evo Portland)

This is the same route from below climbed a while ago but this time around I’m climbing for a lead test.

When you take a lead test you usually have to perform a few basic parts. Demonstrating back clipping, z-clipping, are common requirements. Once you demonstrate some clipping knowledge, you’re asked to demonstrate lead climbing and belaying a lead climber. In my experience taking two lead tests at Maine Rock Gym and now evo Portland, it’s a 5.9 or harder. In the lead climb portion, once you’re at least higher than the second or third clip, you’re asked to take an unannounced lead fall. While belaying a lead, you’ll need to demonstrate catching an unannounced lead fall.

On this day, one of my climbing partners was thinking of taking her belay test. This was my chance to take a nice lead fall tied into someone half my weight. It turned out to be a soft catch. Now that I’ve got a lead partner, you should be seeing more lead beta.

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by Arthur

My name is Arthur Page and I live in Portland Maine. I've been climbing on and off for about 8 years. This year I've decided to up my climbing game and have been training to move past the gym and start out-door lead climbing this summer. I'm currently bouldering between V2 and V3 and climbing top rope at the gym between 5.8 and 5.9. I started this site because of how difficult it is to find climbing resources. Most videos lack production quality and getting any reliable information involves dropping hundreds on a class at a gym. To me this is counter to what I believe to principles of climbing. It is a sport centered around personal challenge, community, and sharing. I hope you feel the same way and I hope you enjoy figure8!