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5.9 | Get Your Wallet (evo Portland)

This is the same route from below climbed a while ago but this time around I’m climbing for a lead test.

When you take a lead test you usually have to perform a few basic parts. Demonstrating back clipping, z-clipping, are common requirements. Once you demonstrate some clipping knowledge, you’re asked to demonstrate lead climbing and belaying a lead climber. In my experience taking two lead tests at Maine Rock Gym and now evo Portland, it’s a 5.9 or harder. In the lead climb portion, once you’re at least higher than the second or third clip, you’re asked to take an unannounced lead fall. While belaying a lead, you’ll need to demonstrate¬†catching an unannounced lead fall.

On this day, one of my climbing partners was thinking of taking her belay test. This was my chance to take a nice lead fall tied into someone half¬†my weight. It turned out to be a soft catch. Now that I’ve got a lead partner, you should be seeing more lead beta.